Impetuous three...

Once upon a time in a land very far away there lived a handsome young(ish) man named Duncan who dreamed of setting to sea.  He bought a little boat and repaired all the old wooden parts so that he might have many adventures and learn about the ways of the sea in the great Mediterranean.

He sailed his little boat far and wide through many different countries and across the great Mediterranean. He visited all kinds of lands and met lots of interesting people but always he felt a little bit lonely. When he looked up at the stars he wanted someone to share his marvel with and when he walked in the mountains he wondered if he’d find anyone who loved to travel as much as he did. When he discovered the delights of wonderful local markets he wondered if he would find anyone who enjoyed the simple pleasures of a really good meal and who would love drinking and being merry with as much gusto as himself.  He knew that not everyone likes to sail and that lots of people get frustrated with living in the small space which a sailing boat affords. He also knew it takes an unusual kind of person to be happy when you're always needing to fix things and make do with what is available in far flung lands.

Then one day he was chugging his canal boat up to a mooring spot and a young(ish) girl called Ruth bounded out of the boat next door to help him. He didn't need any help but was glad to meet an enthusiastic friendly boater.

He wasted no time in getting to know her and they discovered they had lots of things in common. Ruth had never been sailing but was very excited to find out all about it as she loved living on her narrowboat and relished the challenges and joys which that life gave. She'd traveled by land to many places but never dreamed that it would be possible for her to own a boat that could cross oceans. They started to dream of making a strong safe home together which could have the freedom to go wherever the wind would take them and stay as long as they liked in their own home.

They read lots of books and learned what they could but alas they had no such vessel to set to sea in. As luck would have it they heard of a boat that might suit in a far off land so they packed up some food and trudged off through the virgin snow that lay on the ground on the start of their journey to Impetuous.

When they found Impetuous it was very clear that she would need a lot of work before she could take them upon adventures on the high seas. Lichen and algae adorned her dulled hull.  A strong wicked wind called Ike had swept over where she lay and stolen much. They thought long and hard about whether all this work would be worth it and took themselves off to New Orleans to glean some wisdom from the wizards of Jazz. As the clarinet and trumpets weaved their positive notes through the afternoon sun they could see that though the journey would be arduous, Impetuous would indeed be worth it.

Undaunted over the next few years the industrious couple breathed life back in to Impetuous. With the help of a kindly man, an old wise man and the magical golden rasta. Every Sunday they listened to the wizards of jazz to help prevent their enthusiasm from waning. Like a flower in spring time she rewarded their toil by revealing her beauty once again until the day came when they finally moved her to the water. A few months later she finally got to sail once more and when the couple listened to Impetuous through the sounds of her lovely mast that they had built and shaped with their own hands they could hear that she was thrilled to be back where she belonged and she promised to take them far in safety in return for all the work they'd put into helping her.

They had a party to show people around and say thank you for all the help they'd been given by their neighbours and friends. Eventually all was ready and they set off upon their journey to explore the world in the only way they knew how. By boat, using the graceful power of the wind.

And so it came to pass that the couple went exploring. From their first big passage to the big blue, to the great sweetness and mountains of Guatemala they explored a corner of the Caribbean. Even once they had aventuras sin impetuous amongst the Mayan ruins at Tikal. A big highlight was when they visited Cuba, they learned much about different ways of finding happiness and heard much more heavenly music to spur them onwards. They lived their dream and Impetuous rewarded them with being a beautiful vessel that looked after them as the seas rose.

Before long both themselves and Impetuous felt as one and they were ready for adventures anew. And so they intended to pass through a narrow canal that separated the continent of the Americas into a different sea and venture again.

But there were trolls who guarded the entrance to the canal. They threatened to set loose the hungry crocodiles that patrolled the canal on anyone who didn't abide by their laws. Our impetuous travellers bargained with the trolls giving them pieces of gold and agreed to take three elves who had been stranded on the east coast. They also took a clever pilot who knew the deadliest stretches of the canal; past the Dungeons of Noriaga and the rapids where the two oceans meet. With the help of all four they weaved themselves through the canal pacific bound.

Once through the canal they set off on their Pacific crossing. For five whole weeks they sailed towards the setting sun with only themselves and their friends the stars for company. They caught fish to eat, listened to the wizards of Jazz on Sundays and were very very happy. They dreamed of the islands to come, scattered like their friends the stars above, throughout the Pacific, that they would visit.

Above the ocean spray the cliffs rose steeply and they realised that they had found their way across the biggest stretch of sea they might encounter. Eager to discover these beautiful wild new lands they meandered the Marquesas, Tuamotoes, Society islands and Tonga.

They knew there would be a time soon when a viscious wind would streak across the tropical isles and to escape from it they would have to venture south to a land of snow capped mountains and fjords where though it would be cold, they would also be safe. They looked around the beautiful bay of islands, visited a wise retired world sailor and celebrated the new year with many of the young adventurers they had met along their way who gathered together in Auckland.

But somehow Impetuous still whispered to them, her mast spoke of more adventure and the couple were not a bit tired. Down further and further they sailed deeper in to the roaring forties where the wind howled like an angry wolf and the sea boiled like a cauldron. But they were safe in Impetuous and she looked after them just as she'd promised.

Together they sailed all the way around New Zealand; visiting the magnificent Land of Fiords and Island of Stewart before they headed north again to tuck Impetuous up for a rest amongst the Great Sounds of Marlborough.

After some work and visiting their friends and family in England they were once more ready for more travels. Since they'd learned much during their adventures, they now knew that they needed less to carry on as long as they wanted. The time had now come when the two travelers were so happy with their lives on the ocean that they thought it would be fun to have a family on Impetuous.

The next time they saw one of their friends; a star, falling to earth, they made a wish upon it; that the last of its light might spark a new life with them. And do you know what, that's just what happened. So very soon there will be Impetuous three exploring the world.

To be continued...

Travelling with boxes part 2...

It was with heavy heart that we had to finally succumb to our plan to leave Impetuous in New Zealand. We'd put it off for the last five months but now the weather was getting wintry and our visas were on the cusp of expiration.  Once we'd chosen our place and yard we set to; getting Impetuous ready for immanent abandonment.  Most of the windows got rebedded and all manner of varnished teak prettiness got covered in rosy red jackets.  Impetuous is now adorned with multiple Fez'.

Though she's mostly stood up extremely well to what we've thrown at her this last 15 months, the interior oiled walls were looking rather forlorn.  The problem started whilst crossing from Panama when not having any sprayhood (dodger) meant that whilst we were thundering along at 8 or 9 knots the occasional wave would break over the boat and soak the interior which was left open for ventilation. This then got much worse when we hit colder climes and suffered from condensation.  Both these things will be resolved in time.  We plan to make a sprayhood on our return to Impetuous next year and improve our insulation and add a heat source before we go to the next cold country.

We've still got three more windows to pull out and rebed when we get back.  

The Marlborough sounds was a pretty area to stop and do some work.  We still moved every few days.  A short sail, a little fish and a change of scenery is a great refresher.  The walking and foraging was brilliant too.  We managed to find a few dry days and so gave the mast a light sand and two more coats of varnish.  It was very pleasing to see how well the varnish has held up.  Keeping on top of it this way should mean that a strip down won't be necessary any time soon.

So then it was time.

We raised our anchor for the last time, got pulled out by the Waikawa marina travel lift and put up the road in Clint's yard.

We managed to get our rental down through negotiation to half price and we think she'll be nice and safe there.

Then it was time to set off again, travelling with boxes.  Of course we still don't have any proper cases or bags for the plane.  The bits and pieces we want to work on and fix from the boat, and tools to use on the boat in England all got crammed into cardboard and wrapped up in tape.

We hitched a ride to Picton where we caught the ferry across to the North island.  Then we hopped on to an overnight bus to Auckland.  We just had time to visit our one remaining friend in Auckland whilst most had already headed North towards Fiji or Tonga then got the bus to the airport.  Then it was just a matter of a flight to San Fransisco, then another onwards to London before a bus to Bath.

A little dazed and confused after 65 hours travelling we staggered off the bus and round the back of the train station with our boxes to be met by our good friends Nic and Becs.  It took a little while for the news to filter down into our addled brains that the 8 month old baby Becs was holding was in fact theirs.  They had kept his whole existence a secret from us and everyone had been sworn to secrecy.  What great news to be welcomed back with!  And just the start of learning what has been going on and what has changed since we've been away.

We bought return flights from New Zealand so we are booked to return to our Impetuous voyages in March 2016.  Our plan in March is to do some minor work on her including building the said Sprayhood, explore the Marlborough Sounds a little more and visit the Abel Tasman and Nelson.  We will head North when the cyclone season is over around May towards Tonga, Fiji, New Caledonia, Vanuatu, Papau New Guinea and then on to South East asia.  There is a lot of sailing to look forward to.  

Until then our main priority here is to finish fitting out our narrowboat 'Seth' so that he can be a) a more comfortable home for us whilst in England working and b) hopefully be rented out so that someone else can enjoy him when we go away again next March.  In the mean time we will also seek remunerated employment, though with the beautiful British summer breaking out all around us, we're in no rush!

We plan to carry on writing the blog whilst we're here in the UK, though we're going to be busy so it won't be too often.  If you'd like to hear whenever we post an update rather than having to check the site, you can enter your email address in the space on the right.  As far as I know you won't get any spam from this; blogger will just send you an email of any new posts we publish and you can unsubscribe easily by following the link at the bottom of the email.

We have plenty of stories we never managed to get around to telling from our travels and we may also write a bit about our lives here in England.  If you'd like to hear more, feel free to get in touch. It's always nice to find out that we're not just talking to ourselves!

Old Brown Shoes

Many years ago, whilst I was at university, a group of us entered a match racing competition in the Solent. With all the excitement that the prospect of sailing on big boats brought to my fellow students it wasn't long before someone brought up the subject of spending some money so they might look the part. But hey, we were students; so the most this really was ever going to amount to was some snazzy footwear.

It was with a hint of the juvenile curmudgeon that I said I would not be wasting my money on posh wellies, let alone water proofs until, at the very least; I had a boat upon which to wear them. When the week came I made a point of being barefooted as I danced around; very much the foredeck elephant ballerina.

Several boats on, I find that the boot is somewhat on the other foot. I'd really consider buying some sensible footwear and decent oily's. Its just that with so many other things to spend money on, they seem to be relegated to the; 'for another time' list.

I do make a yearly donation to the 'looking the part' bit by purchasing a new pair of; soon to be old, brown deck shoes. They usually make it a year and a half before the worn out sole drops off, or the stitching on the bottom tears through the rotted leather and my foot slides out. When they're new, I occasionally wear them to the schools I work in. For a brief period a couple of years ago, they were considered en vogue, as a number of pupils pointed out. I like to think I played my small part in reversing this fad; a scruffy supply teacher in deck shoes and a woolen tie; it's not really quite how the youth of today interpret fashion.

Some people do get funny about footwear on boats. I did my yachtmaster instructor course a couple of years ago. The sun was shinning and my deck shoes were banished to a locker; no point of wearing them out prematurely I thought. All was well, but as the day came closer for our final assessment, the instructors' instructor pulled me aside and said, 'better wear your shoes tomorrow Duncan, the chap assessing you is bit funny about footwear on boats.' So I did, and passed. Funny to think that wearing my scruffy old deck shoes actually helped me become a yachtmaster instructor. Puts me in mind of Groucho Marks' thoughts on clubs...

All this is at the forefront of my mind as the nights draw in and gales proliferate. My current deck shoes might make it a bit longer, but the right foot shoe is on its last legs, of course I have got one shoe of the previous pair left, but I'm not sure if its for the left or right foot.

I remember an adage from my Dad. Actually come to think of it, it's probably what my mother says of my dad and his choice of footwear for when the weather turns nasty when sailing. 'When its cold, wet and rainy the best footwear you can hope to have on are your slippers.' Its dark and drizzling out side. But it's OK; I’m inside, staying dry with my slippers on.

Budget Bonanza

It's a topic many blogs broach and people often wonder about so we thought we'd toss our hat into the ring.

On Impetuous we don't have a budget as such. We just try to make our money last as long as we can whilst having what we value. Though we did try to guess how much we might spend this last year and made that our goal to save up whilst we were in England. As we've been sailing for a year now I thought it was high time we work out how much it really has cost us.

We rejoined Impetuous in the third week of January 2014. Between then and now (the end of January 2015) we have spent exactly £7,829 on living on Impetuous. That's $11,978 (USD), €10,177 (Euros), $15,814 (NZD) or 745,869 Indian Rupees at todays exchange.

Is that a lot or a little? We have mixed views on this. It's less than we'd thought, but we always think we could live more frugally. Lets run through what this year entailed.

We've sailed over 10,000 miles this year. We left Guatemala for Belize in March then had a month in Cuba. We then spent a few months in Panama seeing some of the San Blas islands and Las Perlas on our way out into the big blue. Over three months spent in French Polynesia were a joy; sailing most days and visiting some of each group; the Marquesas, Tuamotus and Society islands. We then moved on through the Cook islands to lovely Tonga before heading down to New Zealand for the cyclone season.

So what were our main expenses?

The Panama canal was a big deal for us and cost us £650 ($1,000). You can pay more but we did it without an agent; standing our own bond, doing the tiny amount of paperwork and avoided hiring help by taking backpackers through as line handlers. It was a great experience for all. The officials were a joy to deal with and we think, on reflection, that it was great value for money.

Checking into and out of so many countries adds up, but we were saved financially by both French Polynesia and New Zealand being entirely free to us lucky Brits. We estimate around £700 (just over $1000) going on such fees this year. We may have had to pay to be in Cuba (around £150) for a month but it was a wonderfully cheap month where we were able to replenish our rum stocks for £2 ($3) a bottle and a roadside pizza cost the same as a roadside icecream; 12.5 pence (20c).

We filled up our diesel three times this year. Firstly we'd left it empty in Guatemala, then again before leaving Panama and lastly in Bora Bora where they offered duty free fuel. We'd had some windless times around Panama and then the Societies particularly while we were trying to show Chris and Jean (Duncans' parents) a good time. We've still got over half a tank left of this. That's £500 ($750) a surprisingly large amount to us; given how much we avoid motoring and rely on solar for all our electricity. The price of fuel was almost exactly the same at all three places, about £2.60 ($4) a gallon.

We use on average a 9kg gas bottle about every 6 weeks, that's £130 ($200) largely used to make an inordinate amount of tea. We've never paid for water though others certainly do sometimes. We only stayed in a marina that one time in Panama ($50 for one night... still spitting feathers) and we paid for a mooring buoy once in Tonga (12 Panga, £4) – then moved to anchor the next day.

This total also includes a fair amount of cash going to the marina in Guatemala where we'd left Impetuous for 5 months whilst we were back in England visiting family and friends, and earning money. This was $110 per month US for an excellent service; a clean boat and monthly email about how beautiful she still was (thanks Burnt key). Whilst still in the Rio Dulce we paid a sailmaker to recut our new main (which had come with the boat but didn't fit). He quoted for the whole job; re-stitching and three new reef points but we baulked at the price and decided a better investment would be to buy some sailmaking equipment and hardware for a fraction of the cost.

About £500 went on the boat; filters, varnish and said sail adjustment stuff. We were ahead on this; though we didn't leave Texas with a finished boat, we certainly left with a dependable one given all the work we'd done on her.

We have third party insurance for Impetuous. At £200 a year we think it's important. If she drags her anchor and ploughs into a superyacht the damage (to it) is covered. Also morally we want it, lest we accidentally injure anyone else. The responsibility for our own health and the boats wellbeing falls to us.

So that leaves about £4,800 (£100 or $150 per week) for flour, fishing gear and fun; pillows, pasta and peanuts; bouncy balls, bacon and beer. Our biggest spending months on these were in Panama stocking up ready for expensive French Polynesia and now we're in New Zealand where our stores are intentionally low and the availability of nice things is high.

Of the people we've met we're certainly at the more frugal end, though some do spend less. We eat really well on Impetuous. If it was a problem we could save money by buying less vegetables, no meat, less olive oil, capers, olives, whole spices, chocolate, butter and milk but we don't want or need to. We've purposefully not estimated the proportion of this total that goes on alcohol... make of that as you will!

What probably helps to keep our costs down is that we always cook at home. We never feel the urge to eat out unless there's something new to learn and it's cheap. In the Marquesas one of the main local favourites is 'Poisson Cru' which we tried at roadside stalls a few times; trying to learn the quantities of lime and coconut in which you eat the raw fish, so now we can have it at home; delicious. About 10 different kinds of dried beans, 3 different lentils, various flours, rice and pasta provide a backbone to an endless variety of meals aboard Impetuous. We love visiting local markets, trying to find foods growing wild and attempting new things; of course this results in plenty of disasters along with the triumphs.

We do every job we possibly can ourselves on the boat. We both share an interest in how things work and enjoy learning new skills even if this means making mistakes sometimes. After spending so long restoring Impetuous we really value the confidence we have in our own work and understanding her simple systems on which we rely.